2012-09-09
Day 9 - Cloudy ?
Actually a little overcast today, so good walking weather.
I start later than I intended but head out, today feels longer than indicated on the guide book which is proving to be pretty inaccurate.
Eventually find the alberge and get my no frills 5euro bed for the night.
Day after tomorrow I'll be in Santiago. I've been toying with the idea of dropping Muxia from my itinerary and spending more time in Finistere or porto.
I start later than I intended but head out, today feels longer than indicated on the guide book which is proving to be pretty inaccurate.
Eventually find the alberge and get my no frills 5euro bed for the night.
Day after tomorrow I'll be in Santiago. I've been toying with the idea of dropping Muxia from my itinerary and spending more time in Finistere or porto.
Day 8 - Onward to Pontevedra
Nothing to report, getting into a reasonable routine now, walk, wash, laundry, food then sleep.
The alberge was at the start of the city so pushed on to the far side of the city and got a bed in Hotel Ruias, nice place and will give me a head start on the next day.
When I walk out the following day I find that the locals are cordoning off some of the streets I think there is a cycle race coming through the city.
The alberge was at the start of the city so pushed on to the far side of the city and got a bed in Hotel Ruias, nice place and will give me a head start on the next day.
When I walk out the following day I find that the locals are cordoning off some of the streets I think there is a cycle race coming through the city.
Day 7 - Damage report
Damage so far, 14 blisters, which includes 4 on hands 10 on feet assorted locations, sun burnt legs and a bruised thumb fending off a wild dog, don't ask.
Day 7 - Walking ...Fun ?
Alarm goes off at 4.30 I'm out the door by 5am, I have a 235m climb and descent of Monte Cornedo, but it will be a long day today as at next stop is 32.6km, over 20 miles.
Bizarrely I enjoy the day, I have a picnic breakfast at Orbenille overlooking the charming Porrino industrial district.
I have a coffee in Porrino city centre. The climb was tough, but I think I have the stamina again, so I plod on. I am far from the fastest pilgrim but I am relentless.
I meet another pilgrim as we both enter the city centre of Redondela, nice lad Tom from Germany, there is also a group of 4 German lads I've keep meeting but the English is not so good.
I chatted the Mary of the Irish crowd they buggered up their days by staying too long in Porto so they will skip a head by bus to catch up with their schedule, this will mean they can't get the plenary indulgence, as you have to walk the last 100km to Santiago. I don't think there hearts were in it anyway.
Bizarrely I enjoy the day, I have a picnic breakfast at Orbenille overlooking the charming Porrino industrial district.
I have a coffee in Porrino city centre. The climb was tough, but I think I have the stamina again, so I plod on. I am far from the fastest pilgrim but I am relentless.
I meet another pilgrim as we both enter the city centre of Redondela, nice lad Tom from Germany, there is also a group of 4 German lads I've keep meeting but the English is not so good.
I chatted the Mary of the Irish crowd they buggered up their days by staying too long in Porto so they will skip a head by bus to catch up with their schedule, this will mean they can't get the plenary indulgence, as you have to walk the last 100km to Santiago. I don't think there hearts were in it anyway.
Day 6 - Caminoists
Rubias to Tui, I have a bad night sleep in the Alberge, hormones running high with the younger pilgrims, wished they'd shut up and get a room preferably not mine.
By 10.30 I drop off to sleep, woke at 2am and then up at 6am. pack bags in dark and head out. Today will be my last day in Portugal, Bom dia no more ... Buen Dias here we come.
Some impressive building work !
The journey has one peak then it pretty much down hill to the river Minho, which marks the north border of Portugal. Across the river Tui is an old medieval town with a cathedral at the top, so plenty of narrow winding streets to the top.
To a avoid a repeat of last night I treat myself to a decent guest house. Stocked up on supplies and installed myself in my room with feet up and my kindle, nice.
The clocks have gone forward when I entered Spain. At 8.30 I go out for some dinner, the restaurant next door to looks nice and on seeing Gante the French lady sitting outside I enquire about the food, she kindly invites me to join her party.
Dinner is pleasant while the company is excellent.
By 10.30 I drop off to sleep, woke at 2am and then up at 6am. pack bags in dark and head out. Today will be my last day in Portugal, Bom dia no more ... Buen Dias here we come.
Some impressive building work !
The journey has one peak then it pretty much down hill to the river Minho, which marks the north border of Portugal. Across the river Tui is an old medieval town with a cathedral at the top, so plenty of narrow winding streets to the top.
To a avoid a repeat of last night I treat myself to a decent guest house. Stocked up on supplies and installed myself in my room with feet up and my kindle, nice.
The clocks have gone forward when I entered Spain. At 8.30 I go out for some dinner, the restaurant next door to looks nice and on seeing Gante the French lady sitting outside I enquire about the food, she kindly invites me to join her party.
The table now consists of myself, Gante who I discover while living in France has Ukrainian heritage, a German girl Elana, who's a special needs teacher, she had just completed the fatima pilgrimage and met Gante before porto, the final member of our dinner party was Henry a French man who is working on his 10th Camino at an astonishing age of 85.
Dinner is pleasant while the company is excellent.
Day 5 - Aquarius
Accommodation in Pont de Lima was okay, 25 Euros, food was a quite expensive as I ate in a riverside restaurant but was very good, lots of pasta, I need the energy as I have not really eaten last couple of days with the heat.
Left Pont de Lima early 6.30 am the way marking going out of town was not great but found my way.
Today takes me to the top of the summit Alto da Portelo Grande, at 405 mtrs above sea level this is the highest point for me on the portugues camino.
View from the summit.
At the top i share apples and grape with the Irish mob, Martin Mary and the 2 Anns, also Gantes is there she is one of the French ladies they met at the hotel. Nice lady but a bit worst for wear having taking a couple of falls going up the summit.
I finally make it to Rubias which will be my home for the next night by 1pm.
The alberge does not open till 1.30 pm so I chill out with the other waiting pilgrims.
The last of my rations... :(
The nearest café to the hostel is about half a km away, 500 painful sun blasted metres away, I have to make the trek as I have no food left. They have a pilgrim menu and I enjoy baked Cod and sliced potatoes. I also spy a can of Aquarius, this is a still lemon drink make by coke-cola, I've only ever seen it in Spain.
Left Pont de Lima early 6.30 am the way marking going out of town was not great but found my way.
Today takes me to the top of the summit Alto da Portelo Grande, at 405 mtrs above sea level this is the highest point for me on the portugues camino.
View from the summit.
At the top i share apples and grape with the Irish mob, Martin Mary and the 2 Anns, also Gantes is there she is one of the French ladies they met at the hotel. Nice lady but a bit worst for wear having taking a couple of falls going up the summit.
I finally make it to Rubias which will be my home for the next night by 1pm.
The alberge does not open till 1.30 pm so I chill out with the other waiting pilgrims.
The last of my rations... :(
The nearest café to the hostel is about half a km away, 500 painful sun blasted metres away, I have to make the trek as I have no food left. They have a pilgrim menu and I enjoy baked Cod and sliced potatoes. I also spy a can of Aquarius, this is a still lemon drink make by coke-cola, I've only ever seen it in Spain.
2012-09-04
Pont de Lima - Day 4
Woke up at 3am, with sun burn from the last two days walking I realised that If I am going to get through today I need to go under cover of darkness.
So packed my bag and am on the road for 4:10am. Two hill passes to get through. A long hard day, but not sunburnt again, which is good. The countryside is beautiful, Pont de Lima is gearing up for a festival.
I've had a couple of missed calls from work I think, phone was in my bag, I don't know who's calling but send a text.
So packed my bag and am on the road for 4:10am. Two hill passes to get through. A long hard day, but not sunburnt again, which is good. The countryside is beautiful, Pont de Lima is gearing up for a festival.
I've had a couple of missed calls from work I think, phone was in my bag, I don't know who's calling but send a text.
Barcelos - Day 3
Late start again,really hot burnt legs again, they are well cooked now, get a place at another guest house, I need to soak my legs, feel crippled..
Met the german couple, from breakfast, they dropped out at Raitais with blisters, they were impressed that I had made it, it was a tough day, got lost a few times, guide book is a next to useless.
Happen to stay at the same place as the irish crowd, joined them for dinner but struggled to eat, no apitite with all the heat.
Met the german couple, from breakfast, they dropped out at Raitais with blisters, they were impressed that I had made it, it was a tough day, got lost a few times, guide book is a next to useless.
Happen to stay at the same place as the irish crowd, joined them for dinner but struggled to eat, no apitite with all the heat.
Break fast - Day 3
Finally got to my Hotel, very nice place. Receptionist tells me there are 5 other Pilgrims staying here, just then I meet Sueoval again in the lobby, she is a Swedish lady I walked with for a while during the day, speaks reasonable English, well certainly better than my Swedish. hey dor!
I have to buy some aloe vera gel, as burnt the back of my legs on the beach, ouch.
When looking for a place to eat I met the irish ladies again they have reunited with there friends and I join them for dinner, they all love to sing tradional songs and the one fella in the group Martin has his harmionica, he plays in gaelic band every friday. Top crowd, we all have swop stories.
Breakfast at my hotel, okay late start but i needed the sleep, 6 guests including and by the dress I can see we are all walkers, shame no one is talking. I break the ice and introdue myself to the english couple and to the german couple, I join Sueoval and break my fast with her.
I have to buy some aloe vera gel, as burnt the back of my legs on the beach, ouch.
When looking for a place to eat I met the irish ladies again they have reunited with there friends and I join them for dinner, they all love to sing tradional songs and the one fella in the group Martin has his harmionica, he plays in gaelic band every friday. Top crowd, we all have swop stories.
Breakfast at my hotel, okay late start but i needed the sleep, 6 guests including and by the dress I can see we are all walkers, shame no one is talking. I break the ice and introdue myself to the english couple and to the german couple, I join Sueoval and break my fast with her.
We are not alone - Day 2
So not such a quiet route, met two walkers Mary and Ann from Ireland, they are a party of 4 the other two were on the train to the next town with the bags. Not sure if its the same if you don't carry your own load.
I've done the camino, but this trip will take me north, west and south. Because of this I feel more comfitable to explore and not have the mono-directional call to the west, as I had on the camino france. Certainly having done 500km previously, I know i can do this 379km so happier to take my time and enjoy the journey.
I've done the camino, but this trip will take me north, west and south. Because of this I feel more comfitable to explore and not have the mono-directional call to the west, as I had on the camino france. Certainly having done 500km previously, I know i can do this 379km so happier to take my time and enjoy the journey.
Beach - Day 2
My first days walk. My start point was Mercado, from the Mercado metro station I crossed the bridge and headed west to the coast. Spotted my first way mark which was a surprise as I had heard this route was not marked.
Best laid plans, etc, it's at this point the batteries dies on my camera, so stopped at a café to wait for shop to open, around 9:30am ...maybe.
Arrived at the coast, huge promenade, definitely a good start point. I was pleased when a couple of locals wished me "Bien Camino".
Best laid plans, etc, it's at this point the batteries dies on my camera, so stopped at a café to wait for shop to open, around 9:30am ...maybe.
Arrived at the coast, huge promenade, definitely a good start point. I was pleased when a couple of locals wished me "Bien Camino".
Porto - Day 1
I found my guest house, well they call it a pension here, my room it on the top floor, the stair case is mad, reminds me of those stairwells you see in the American films, usually involving a fire fight, but this is very rickety and not a level step in, I feel sea sick going up.
Seeking out the Porto Cathedral I bought my Pilgrim Passport, I'll need to get this stamped at all my stops on my way to prove I have completed my Camino. Chatting with the clerk at the cathedral I learned that he had already sold 30 pilgrims passports for September, so it looks like I wont be alone. Also picked up 1.5 litres of water for my hydration bladder, it does take 3 ltrs but learnt from last time to take what you need as there are always cafes & shops where I can get more.
I was expecting to have internet access at the guest house, however the "internet access" was the reception desk laptop, for some reason it lost wifi when the owners son unplugged it, after about 10-20 minute argument on how to fix it between the father and son, I gave up and went to bed.
Seeking out the Porto Cathedral I bought my Pilgrim Passport, I'll need to get this stamped at all my stops on my way to prove I have completed my Camino. Chatting with the clerk at the cathedral I learned that he had already sold 30 pilgrims passports for September, so it looks like I wont be alone. Also picked up 1.5 litres of water for my hydration bladder, it does take 3 ltrs but learnt from last time to take what you need as there are always cafes & shops where I can get more.
I was expecting to have internet access at the guest house, however the "internet access" was the reception desk laptop, for some reason it lost wifi when the owners son unplugged it, after about 10-20 minute argument on how to fix it between the father and son, I gave up and went to bed.
Airport - Day 1
Okay quick catch up first. Left home 5:25am Saturday 1st September. Walked to the airport, started as I mean to continue. Slept 20 minutes on the Jersey flight, Porto flight delayed, arrived in Porto 2pm.
The airport was really smart, some sort of local festival going on, folk singers and dancing in the arrivals hall as well as display of local arts. Everyone really friendly.
I was accosted by a lady bearing a tray of traditional local glazed bannana cake. She explained that it was from a town north of Porto, Povoa de Varzim. I said I was heading that way so she was very helpful and one of her colleagues dressed up as a teddy bear showed me to the metro.
When looking bemused at the ticket machine another lady come up and showed me how it all worked. I really must say the Portuguese know how to take care of their tourists, Jersey Tourism take note. I would certainly recommend Porto for a city break, I was instantly made to feel very welcome.
The airport was really smart, some sort of local festival going on, folk singers and dancing in the arrivals hall as well as display of local arts. Everyone really friendly.
I was accosted by a lady bearing a tray of traditional local glazed bannana cake. She explained that it was from a town north of Porto, Povoa de Varzim. I said I was heading that way so she was very helpful and one of her colleagues dressed up as a teddy bear showed me to the metro.
When looking bemused at the ticket machine another lady come up and showed me how it all worked. I really must say the Portuguese know how to take care of their tourists, Jersey Tourism take note. I would certainly recommend Porto for a city break, I was instantly made to feel very welcome.
2012-08-29
There I go again.
My feet have gotten restless again, so for my 2012 Camino I'm going to start in Porto in Portugal, head north to Santiago in Spain, then west to Muxia and finally south to Finiterre. Where I'll cool my feet in the Atlantic.
Here are a couple of pics to remind you of last year.
I've emptied out the sand from my trip to Greece last week, so once again my trusty rucksack will be my home for 18 days in September.
Here are a couple of pics to remind you of last year.
I've emptied out the sand from my trip to Greece last week, so once again my trusty rucksack will be my home for 18 days in September.
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